Routesetters & Comps

By Susánica Tam - Routesetters are arguably the most important component of readying a venue for a competition. Their experience and knowledge of the sport take center stage during comps when professional climbers step off the mat onto the start holds. A setter’s ability to effectively challenge but also separate a field of talented climbers is crucial to the comp’s success. Armed with plastic, a pocket full of wrenches, and some devious innovation, this close-knit group can choose to push a climber’s flexibility and precision in one problem, or test power and imagination in the next.

Compared to some countries, the United States has fewer internationally-certified setters, but the U.S national level comp-setting crew functions cohesively, frequently fine-tuning and exploring new possibilities of their trade. High-level setting involves rigorous certification processes as well as a sprinkling of skill—apprentice/intern setters are currently required to climb V6 and 5.12 before applying to join the club—and these minimum standards will be increased next year, said Mike Helt of routesetter.com. At the upcoming Vail Teva Mountain games, chief setter Kynan Waggoner and his crew including Mike Moelter, Jamie Emerson and international setter, Korea’s Donghyun Kim will be showcasing their work.