Air Conditioning is coming soon... In the meantime we are doing our best to keep the air well circulated. It is better than outside!
It is hard to know exactly what he is up to without waiting for the next production from BigUp. He doesn't have a spraysheet and doesn't have a blog. According to Dani Andrada, Chris is in the Catalunya part of spain. He has been redpointing and onsighting some hard sport routes, including "Full Equipe" in Oliana, Spain. He also just recently had the FA of "Victima Perfecta" (9A). What's next?
LOCAL:
Hopefully you got a chance to check out Jason Kehl's slideshow last week. He has been repeating hard classics up at the Tram and at Black Mountain. If you want to stay posted on his socal chrushage check out his blog.
Allright, well it's not exactly breaking news... But our very own Alan Moore has recently repeated Dan Mill's "Devil's Dance" (v12) This is the low start to the popular "Steep Sharma Arete" (seen in the climbing film "Rampage"), here's some footage.
WORLDWIDE:
Chris Sharma.
It is hard to know exactly what he is up to without waiting for the next production from BigUp. He doesn't have a spraysheet and doesn't have a blog. According to Dani Andrada, Chris is in the Catalunya part of spain. He has been redpointing and onsighting some hard sport routes, including "Full Equipe" in Oliana, Spain. He also just recently had the FA of "Victima Perfecta" (9A). What's next?Paul Robinson. Paul added a one move wonder to the Veritas boulder in RMNP. He dubbed it "Mendax" and graded it 8B (v13). Local strongmen Daniel Woods and Jon Cardwell have both already repeated it, both doing the "contrivance" slightly differently, Daniel feels it is an 8A+ and Jon says his way goes at 7c+.
Daniel Woods. His stay in Europe is over, but just before he left he sent his project, a new 8C (v15) in Magic Wood called "In Search of Time Lost". This is a left exit to Dave Graham's "Left Hand of Darkness" (8a) in the Darkness cave.
Speaking of Dave. He recently has badly injured the pulley in his right middle finger, disabling his left hand from crimping. Yet, in Fontainebleau he was able to find a project not requiring a powerful left hand crimp, and he sent! Dave's new problem is called "The Island" 8C (v15). Looks like some crazy compression! You can check out a short video here.
RANDOM:
Case study: The Mandala. Probably the most famous boulder problem in the
world. The only others that can compare are Midnight Lightning, Karma, and Dreamtime. FA'd by Chris Sharma in 2000. If you have ever seen the climb in person, and then watch the way Chris did it-it is mind-numbing. The problem had been tried for over 20 years. Much speculation rose about it's difficulty, many thought it was solid v14, Chris jokingly said it felt like v16, the way he climbed it, it may have been that hard. Dave Graham came along and found a micro-crimp that provided a much more reasonable (human) sequence, and graded it v12.
Another noticeable ascent, was the recent first female ascent by Lisa Rands, I speculate there won't be another female ascent for some time.
Tony Lamiche came along and added a low start to the problem, making for one of Bishop's three v14's (next to Edward's "Goldfish Trombone" and Birch's "The Swarm"). For those who can climb 8b+ it is nearly the most sought after boulder problem in the world. To this day the Mandala SDS has only been repeated by Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Kevin Jorgeson, Shawn Diamond, Matt Birch, Gabriele Moroni, and Sean McColl. *note Paul robinson climbed the sit into the "Mandala Direct" (straightens out the original exit, also v12, FA: Jeff Sillcox), having the first and only ascent thus far.. he refers to it as "The Mandala Direct Assis".
No comments:
Post a Comment