The Dyno Comp at Threshhold tonight was off the hook! The energy in the air was thick, the crowd was lively, and the competitors put on one heck of a performance.
Qualifiers went well. The Intermediate Problems seemed be alot of fun for those climbing them, it came down to who could flash the most of the 8 problems, and props to Jake Gingerich for taking first in the Intermediate category. All five of the five Advanced competitors displayed alot of talent and determination. The top three ended up being Kyle Owen and Dan Fry tied for first and Garrett Gregor in 2nd. These three moved on to the finals round. Garrett Kyle and Dan all flashed problem 1, a jumpstart to two slopers led to a double-clutch dyno off of smeary feet to the so-ill "hands" feature. This problem was a shade to easy, but a great demonstration of the strength and talent that each competitor had. Problem two was a two stage run-and-jump to a hold to a feature in which you had to catch two jug-crimps and squeeze, then set up off good feet to a medium/long steep dyno to a really good hold. Kyle Owen flashed this problem in proper style, catching the finish jug one handed right at the dead point. The problem managed to elude Garrett and Dan, Garrett displayed alot of heart scraping his face on the wall and bleeding from the run and jump but still staying focused and determined. Problem three was a straightforward huge dyno off the rockcandy sea sponge feature and a really good foot, that went to a jug that had two good sidepulls. Dan was the only one to stick it, on his fifth out of five attempts, making it look desperate. Hence there was a tie between Kyle and Dan. This led to a sudden death round. Kyle had not completed problem three and Dad had not completed problem two. The two competitors went back and forth attempt to attempt to see who could stick their problem first. Kyle ended up nailing his problem on his second attempt, after changing his beta and double kicking the starting holds. Kyle won, and it was a great show, nailbitingly close and super fun to watch.
Look out for video footage soon!
WORLD NEWS:
Ethan Pringle is still burning everyone off. He just did the Cobra Crack in Squamish, B.C.
The Mammut SLC OR NE2C 08 comp went down this past weekend. It looked sick.
Mens
1. Chris Sharma
2. Ethan Pringle
3. Guillaume Glarion Mondet
Womens
1. Alex Puccio
2. Alex Johnson
3. Sydney McNair
and honorable mention our very own Julian Bautista placed 8th! He beat out the likes of Kevin Jorgeson and Paul Robinson.
Saturday, August 23, 2008
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
topa ropa
WORLD NEWS:
Ethan Pringle is tearing it up. He recently repeated (2nd ascent) "The Path" in Canada. The Path was FA'd by sonnie trotter late last year, you may recall it because it spurred much controversial debate: as Sonnie chopped the bolts after leading it on all natural pro. The Path is a solid pitch of 5.14 climbing that is led with traditional gear. This now puts Ethan in the elite category of strong climbers who are pushing the limits of both physical and mental climbing to the max, by climbing hard sporty facey pitches on traditional protection. So he hurts his leg bouldering and decides to start headpointing 5,14's off the couch. hmmmm.
Right now, Ethan is in Squamish attempting the Cobra Crack and Dreamcatcher. Up until last week neither had been repeated. Dreamcatcher was first put up by Chris Sharma and is 5.14D. It is in Squamish and has been up for grabs for nearly several years now, and still has yet to see a second ascent by any local Canadian hardmen (lev pinter, mike doyle, sonnie trotter, sean mccoll). This sport climb is very hard, proud, and unique. Check out a video here. The Cobra Crack is well known for being the central theme of the best climbing film ever made "First Ascent". In the film you watch Didier Berthod work the line, and Sonnie Trotter get the first ascent. It is arguably the hardest climb in the world (on trad lead). If you haven't seen it, let me tell you that the crux is locking off a one finger undercling finger jam and getting a fingerlock in a heinously flaring and thin crack. Ethan has been working both, and is psyched, motivated, and very very strong.
Speaking of this proud line.. It is kind of on the DL, I guess, but Nico Favresse has gotten the second ascent of the cobra crack! Last week. He must be pretty humble because ethan said, "I was even on the route the next day after he sent and none of the other people at the cliff knew" Well now, we know. Allez Nico! And good luck to Ethan and Dave Macleod (who is also working the capturing line right now).
Ty Landman and Dave Graham are in Europe right now climbing some hard boulder problems. In the last week he has climbed two v14's Radja and New Base Line, and three v13's! Most impressively one of the v13's (Cullinan) he flashed! This puts him in the very small and elite 8B flash club. And yes in case you were wondering he called it soft. along with nearly every problem he logs on his scorecard ;).
Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, and Lisa Rands and the rest of their crew are nearing the end of their Rocklands venture. Paul writes in his blog that everyday at least someone is sending one of their projects. They all have sent alot, but the two most noteworthy ascents are Lisa's ascent of Nutsa 8A+ (another v12 for Lisa!) and Paul Robinson getting the third ascent of Amandla 8C (v15 fa by Frederic Nicole and second ascent by Tony Lamiche) Lamiche repeated the problem only a week or so before P-Rob, and word has it from a credible source that he walked up to the problem on crutches!
GYM NEWS:
This past weekend Chris Danielson- one of, if not The, most respected routesetters in the nation hosted a routesetting clinic. It was a great time to say the least, very productive and insightful. Thanks Chris.
New climbing holds are on their way, and fresh routes are being put up daily.
Ethan Pringle is tearing it up. He recently repeated (2nd ascent) "The Path" in Canada. The Path was FA'd by sonnie trotter late last year, you may recall it because it spurred much controversial debate: as Sonnie chopped the bolts after leading it on all natural pro. The Path is a solid pitch of 5.14 climbing that is led with traditional gear. This now puts Ethan in the elite category of strong climbers who are pushing the limits of both physical and mental climbing to the max, by climbing hard sporty facey pitches on traditional protection. So he hurts his leg bouldering and decides to start headpointing 5,14's off the couch. hmmmm.
Right now, Ethan is in Squamish attempting the Cobra Crack and Dreamcatcher. Up until last week neither had been repeated. Dreamcatcher was first put up by Chris Sharma and is 5.14D. It is in Squamish and has been up for grabs for nearly several years now, and still has yet to see a second ascent by any local Canadian hardmen (lev pinter, mike doyle, sonnie trotter, sean mccoll). This sport climb is very hard, proud, and unique. Check out a video here. The Cobra Crack is well known for being the central theme of the best climbing film ever made "First Ascent". In the film you watch Didier Berthod work the line, and Sonnie Trotter get the first ascent. It is arguably the hardest climb in the world (on trad lead). If you haven't seen it, let me tell you that the crux is locking off a one finger undercling finger jam and getting a fingerlock in a heinously flaring and thin crack. Ethan has been working both, and is psyched, motivated, and very very strong.
Speaking of this proud line.. It is kind of on the DL, I guess, but Nico Favresse has gotten the second ascent of the cobra crack! Last week. He must be pretty humble because ethan said, "I was even on the route the next day after he sent and none of the other people at the cliff knew" Well now, we know. Allez Nico! And good luck to Ethan and Dave Macleod (who is also working the capturing line right now).
Ty Landman and Dave Graham are in Europe right now climbing some hard boulder problems. In the last week he has climbed two v14's Radja and New Base Line, and three v13's! Most impressively one of the v13's (Cullinan) he flashed! This puts him in the very small and elite 8B flash club. And yes in case you were wondering he called it soft. along with nearly every problem he logs on his scorecard ;).
Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, and Lisa Rands and the rest of their crew are nearing the end of their Rocklands venture. Paul writes in his blog that everyday at least someone is sending one of their projects. They all have sent alot, but the two most noteworthy ascents are Lisa's ascent of Nutsa 8A+ (another v12 for Lisa!) and Paul Robinson getting the third ascent of Amandla 8C (v15 fa by Frederic Nicole and second ascent by Tony Lamiche) Lamiche repeated the problem only a week or so before P-Rob, and word has it from a credible source that he walked up to the problem on crutches!
GYM NEWS:
This past weekend Chris Danielson- one of, if not The, most respected routesetters in the nation hosted a routesetting clinic. It was a great time to say the least, very productive and insightful. Thanks Chris.
New climbing holds are on their way, and fresh routes are being put up daily.
Thursday, July 10, 2008
The next post will come sooner
WORLD NEWS
There is a four stage bouldering World Cup going on in Europe right now. The last stage completed was in Montauban, France. The next and final stage is to be held in Moscow, Russia. Click here for the most recent results.
Expect some more serious climbing to go down here in the near future... Chris Sharma will be heading to Schleier soon. Tony Lamiche is in Rocklands, South Africa along with Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson who are cleaning up some hard testpieces. And Sean McColl is heading up his Canada crew in Europe.
Adam Ondra just climbed Reality Check 8c+, Gambit 8c+, and onsighted Resistence 8b+/c at the notorious Schleier Wasserfall, Austria. Adam is currently trying to redpoint Open Air, an old Alex Huber (one of the two Huber brothers who now hold the speed record for The Nose)testpiece with zero repeats. Adam has commented that Open Air is "9a+ for sure".
Adam Taylor and Jon Cardwell just repeated The Crew 8C+, which was orignially graded 8C but has suffered many breakages, in Rifle, Colorado, one of the hardest routes there.
LOCAL NEWS
Speaking of Rifle, our very own Alan Moore is currently getting back into route-shape before heading off to Ceuse, France. Alan has climbed two 8Bs including Bride of Frankenstein and Simply Read.
Youth wonderboys Julian and Michael Bautista have both climbed 8B+! After both finishing first at divisionals in Arizona, they made a speedy trip out to Maple Canyon. Julian climbed two 8B+'s (5.14a) including Millenium and Hole Shot.
OTHER NEWS
There is a four stage bouldering World Cup going on in Europe right now. The last stage completed was in Montauban, France. The next and final stage is to be held in Moscow, Russia. Click here for the most recent results.Expect some more serious climbing to go down here in the near future... Chris Sharma will be heading to Schleier soon. Tony Lamiche is in Rocklands, South Africa along with Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson who are cleaning up some hard testpieces. And Sean McColl is heading up his Canada crew in Europe.
Adam Ondra just climbed Reality Check 8c+, Gambit 8c+, and onsighted Resistence 8b+/c at the notorious Schleier Wasserfall, Austria. Adam is currently trying to redpoint Open Air, an old Alex Huber (one of the two Huber brothers who now hold the speed record for The Nose)testpiece with zero repeats. Adam has commented that Open Air is "9a+ for sure".Adam Taylor and Jon Cardwell just repeated The Crew 8C+, which was orignially graded 8C but has suffered many breakages, in Rifle, Colorado, one of the hardest routes there.
LOCAL NEWS
Speaking of Rifle, our very own Alan Moore is currently getting back into route-shape before heading off to Ceuse, France. Alan has climbed two 8Bs including Bride of Frankenstein and Simply Read.
Youth wonderboys Julian and Michael Bautista have both climbed 8B+! After both finishing first at divisionals in Arizona, they made a speedy trip out to Maple Canyon. Julian climbed two 8B+'s (5.14a) including Millenium and Hole Shot.OTHER NEWS
Perfecto the newst climbing film is an in depth look at Mallorcan Psicobloc featuring Boone Speed, Ethan Pringle, and Katie Brown. Also, Dosage 5 is still being shown at various theatres nationwide.
Speaking of Psicobloc everyone should check out the short, "Nels Rosaasen Life Without A Shirt"
GYM NEWS
Air Conditioning is in! Finally. no but really. it is. Come on in and check it out.
Next Monday (the 14th) is Ladies night. All women climb for free from 6-10. Tell your friends!
And the following monday is another mustache monday. So give it time and let grow.
And the following monday is another mustache monday. So give it time and let grow.
Monday, June 9, 2008
Good Job Alex Johnson!
WORLD NEWS:
The results are in from the Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado this weekend:
MENS
1. Kilian Fischhuber (Austria)
2. Gabriele Moroni (Italy)
3. Paul Robinson (USA)
4. Gerome Pouvreau (France)
1. Kilian Fischhuber (Austria)
2. Gabriele Moroni (Italy)
3. Paul Robinson (USA)
4. Gerome Pouvreau (France)
5. Daniel Woods (USA)
WOMENS
1. Alex Johnson (USA)
1. Alex Johnson (USA)
2. Katharina Saurwein (Austria)
3. Anna Stor (Austria)
4. Tiffany Hensley (USA)
5. Vera Zijlstra (Netherlands)
4. Tiffany Hensley (USA)
5. Vera Zijlstra (Netherlands)
As you can see, Austria dominated with three out of the six placers, 2 from the U.S. and one from Italy--yes i called it.
Another 5.15 from Chris Sharma. Right before the competition he finished one of the most impressive routes on his list of projects Papichulo 9A+.
Ethan Pringle. Still nursing a bad injury, and just started climbing again around a month ago: Just climbed a 5.14c at Index called "The All Around Routine". Hmm.
LOCAL NEWS:
Our very own Nic Oklobzija, fresh in from Minnesota,
tore it up at the Tram this weekend. After crushing every problem on the Vanishing Point boulder, (including Flight of the Osirus v7, Snowblind v8, Vanishing Point v9, and the newly established Vesper v10), he had a first ascent of Vesper SDS v11.
Our very own Nic Oklobzija, fresh in from Minnesota,
tore it up at the Tram this weekend. After crushing every problem on the Vanishing Point boulder, (including Flight of the Osirus v7, Snowblind v8, Vanishing Point v9, and the newly established Vesper v10), he had a first ascent of Vesper SDS v11. Also Alan Moore another member of the Threshhold staff added a hard problem in the beach on the Blue Flame boulder. Alan added 5 hard moves to the Cackler v9, by climbing it from an obvious sit. Alan is suggesting v10.
GYM NEWS:
Bring a friend for free night is on Monday the 23rd.
Bring a friend for free night is on Monday the 23rd.
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Climbing Techniques - Tying In
One essential technique in the world of Rock Climbing is Tying In. It is the term used for attaching the rope to your Climbing Harness. There are several things to take into account when doing this technique in order to ensure your safety.
If you are Leading a climb, or sometimes if you are Belaying, you always need to be tied in. In this section, know some guidelines about the equipment involved in Tying In and learn what knot to use in this technique:
Guidelines - Climbing Harnesses
This is the most commonly used tie-in knot.
When completed, the tie-in loop should be about the same size as your abseil loop on your harness. If you want to know more about knots, please go the our Climbing Knots section.
Belay Loop
By tying in, you have created a belay loop. This should always be used to accommodate your Belay Device if necessary - never should the abseil loop on your harness be used for this purpose.
As mentioned above, Tying In is connecting yourself to the rope. Thus, you need to be very careful, especially in tying knots. Know how to tie the required knots correctly to ensure safety.
If you are Leading a climb, or sometimes if you are Belaying, you always need to be tied in. In this section, know some guidelines about the equipment involved in Tying In and learn what knot to use in this technique:
Guidelines - Climbing Harnesses
- As harnesses have different specifications, you should always follow the manufacturer's recommended guidelines.
- A full body harness is recommended especially for very young climbers.
- Sit harnesses can be used in climbing if you are not carrying a backpack. Otherwise, wear a sit harness with a chest harness.
This is the most commonly used tie-in knot.
When completed, the tie-in loop should be about the same size as your abseil loop on your harness. If you want to know more about knots, please go the our Climbing Knots section.
Belay Loop
By tying in, you have created a belay loop. This should always be used to accommodate your Belay Device if necessary - never should the abseil loop on your harness be used for this purpose.
As mentioned above, Tying In is connecting yourself to the rope. Thus, you need to be very careful, especially in tying knots. Know how to tie the required knots correctly to ensure safety.
Sunday, June 1, 2008
All New Problems on the High Ball Boulder
Hey guys we are starting our new stripping and setting system. We just completely stripped the High Ball boulder and put up all new routes. Come rip your skin.
Friday, May 30, 2008
nu
Climbing News:Ethan Pringle. When he was 21 years old, he climbed Realization (5.15a), Bah Bah Black Sheep (5.14d), Esperanza (V14), Goldfish Trombone (v14), the proudest line at the buttermilks--the highball Beautiful and Damned (v13), this is just to name a few... He climbs benchmark routes, he climbs benchmark blocs, and he has a really strong head for scary stuff. In early January of this year he broke his heel falling off the last moves of the "Mandallion" a solid v14 which climbs the sit start into the "Mandala", and finishes on the "Mandala Direct"; this has only been climbed by Paul Robinson. With a bad injury he was only able to take off his cast a few weeks ago. Now, he can finally wear a large Moccasym on his bad foot.. and climb!! This past weekend was his first day climbing outside in 5 months. And he climbed a solid 5.14. off the couch. The route was at Mickey's Beach and is called the Beach Arete. Fellow bay area local Kevin Jorgeson had the first ascent. Ethan may not be climbing any futuristic-hard crazy highballs in the next couple weeks, but expect alot from him in the next few months, from reading his blog it is easy to see he is very determined and is training hard.
BigUp Productions makes the best climbing films. Bar none. Dosage 5 will be premiering next week in Boulder, CO. this is what you can expect in the new film.
- Beth Rodden on Meltdown (5.14c) trad FA in Yosemite which would be awesome by itself. However, there will also be footage of her climbing on other traditional testpieces like The Phoenix (5.13a), Cosmic Debris (5.13b), Peace (5.13c/d) and Book of Hate (5.13d).
- Daniel Woods on the FA of Jade (V15) in RMNP plus Paul Robinson on the second ascent. Several other double digit RMNP problems from Daniel and Paul as well.
- Chris Sharma trying his two possible 5.15b projects in Santa Linya and Siurana, Spain.
- Dani Andrada on his 5.15 route/boulder Ali-Hulk Sentado in Rodellar, Spain.
- Daila Ojeda on 2 5.14s in Santa Linya and Siurana, Spain.
- Patxi Usobiaga on 2 5.14cs in Santa Linya and Margalef, Spain.
- Randy Puro and Tommy Caldwell on new boulders in Yosemite, including the 1st and 2nd ascents of Dogwood (V12), FA of Yabo Roof (V12), FA of Xenophile (V11), 2nd ascent of Tim Clifford’s Park Life (V12) as well as ascents of Drive On (V11) and Kumba (V11).
- Footage from Yangshuo, China featuring Mike Fuselier and Axel Ballay. FA of American Gangster (5.14b) and 2 other 5.14 FAs
- Dave Graham, Ty Landman, Jon Cardwell, Jason Kehl and Chad Greedy in Arkansas. Lost in The Hood (V14) FA, Wood Grain Grippin (V14) FA, many more FAs in the V12-V13 range.
- Jason Kehl and Chris Lindner bouldering in Albarracin, Spain
- “Secrets of the The East” - the unknown gems of New England with Paul Robinson, Matt Bosley and more - FAs of several V10-V14 problems around NY, CT, and MA.
Bouldering WORLD CUP in AMERICA... The first ever America bouldering World Cup, is being held during the Teva Games in Vail, Colorado. From June 5th-7th. This is huge. Top American competitors include Chris Sharma, Daniel Woods, and Paul Robinson, for the men.. And Lisa Rands, Alex Puccio, and Alex Johnson for the women. It will be very interesting to see how they stack up against the Europeans. My personal favorite for the event is Gabriel Moroni, of Italy.
GYM NEWS:
The Campus Board is up! It will be 100% complete after we get the wood rungs in the mail from metolius on monday. Rest your tendons so you can destroy them next week. Here is a really good article and regime for campus training. Specifically for training for raw finger strength/power. http://moonclimbing.com/SchoolRoom.aspx?ID=18 .
train hard. but be careful.. campus training is advanced training and should be used with seriousness and caution.
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