topa ropa

WORLD NEWS:

Ethan Pringle is tearing it up. He recently repeated (2nd ascent) "The Path" in Canada. The Path was FA'd by sonnie trotter late last year, you may recall it because it spurred much controversial debate: as Sonnie chopped the bolts after leading it on all natural pro. The Path is a solid pitch of 5.14 climbing that is led with traditional gear. This now puts Ethan in the elite category of strong climbers who are pushing the limits of both physical and mental climbing to the max, by climbing hard sporty facey pitches on traditional protection. So he hurts his leg bouldering and decides to start headpointing 5,14's off the couch. hmmmm.
Right now, Ethan is in Squamish attempting the Cobra Crack and Dreamcatcher. Up until last week neither had been repeated. Dreamcatcher was first put up by Chris Sharma and is 5.14D. It is in Squamish and has been up for grabs for nearly several years now, and still has yet to see a second ascent by any local Canadian hardmen (lev pinter, mike doyle, sonnie trotter, sean mccoll). This sport climb is very hard, proud, and unique. Check out a video here. The Cobra Crack is well known for being the central theme of the best climbing film ever made "First Ascent". In the film you watch Didier Berthod work the line, and Sonnie Trotter get the first ascent. It is arguably the hardest climb in the world (on trad lead). If you haven't seen it, let me tell you that the crux is locking off a one finger undercling finger jam and getting a fingerlock in a heinously flaring and thin crack. Ethan has been working both, and is psyched, motivated, and very very strong.
Speaking of this proud line.. It is kind of on the DL, I guess, but Nico Favresse has gotten the second ascent of the cobra crack! Last week. He must be pretty humble because ethan said, "I was even on the route the next day after he sent and none of the other people at the cliff knew" Well now, we know. Allez Nico! And good luck to Ethan and Dave Macleod (who is also working the capturing line right now).

Ty Landman and Dave Graham are in Europe right now climbing some hard boulder problems. In the last week he has climbed two v14's Radja and New Base Line, and three v13's! Most impressively one of the v13's (Cullinan) he flashed! This puts him in the very small and elite 8B flash club. And yes in case you were wondering he called it soft. along with nearly every problem he logs on his scorecard ;).

Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, and Lisa Rands and the rest of their crew are nearing the end of their Rocklands venture. Paul writes in his blog that everyday at least someone is sending one of their projects. They all have sent alot, but the two most noteworthy ascents are Lisa's ascent of Nutsa 8A+ (another v12 for Lisa!) and Paul Robinson getting the third ascent of Amandla 8C (v15 fa by Frederic Nicole and second ascent by Tony Lamiche) Lamiche repeated the problem only a week or so before P-Rob, and word has it from a credible source that he walked up to the problem on crutches!

GYM NEWS:

This past weekend Chris Danielson- one of, if not The, most respected routesetters in the nation hosted a routesetting clinic. It was a great time to say the least, very productive and insightful. Thanks Chris.

New climbing holds are on their way, and fresh routes are being put up daily.