topa ropa

WORLD NEWS:

Ethan Pringle is tearing it up. He recently repeated (2nd ascent) "The Path" in Canada. The Path was FA'd by sonnie trotter late last year, you may recall it because it spurred much controversial debate: as Sonnie chopped the bolts after leading it on all natural pro. The Path is a solid pitch of 5.14 climbing that is led with traditional gear. This now puts Ethan in the elite category of strong climbers who are pushing the limits of both physical and mental climbing to the max, by climbing hard sporty facey pitches on traditional protection. So he hurts his leg bouldering and decides to start headpointing 5,14's off the couch. hmmmm.
Right now, Ethan is in Squamish attempting the Cobra Crack and Dreamcatcher. Up until last week neither had been repeated. Dreamcatcher was first put up by Chris Sharma and is 5.14D. It is in Squamish and has been up for grabs for nearly several years now, and still has yet to see a second ascent by any local Canadian hardmen (lev pinter, mike doyle, sonnie trotter, sean mccoll). This sport climb is very hard, proud, and unique. Check out a video here. The Cobra Crack is well known for being the central theme of the best climbing film ever made "First Ascent". In the film you watch Didier Berthod work the line, and Sonnie Trotter get the first ascent. It is arguably the hardest climb in the world (on trad lead). If you haven't seen it, let me tell you that the crux is locking off a one finger undercling finger jam and getting a fingerlock in a heinously flaring and thin crack. Ethan has been working both, and is psyched, motivated, and very very strong.
Speaking of this proud line.. It is kind of on the DL, I guess, but Nico Favresse has gotten the second ascent of the cobra crack! Last week. He must be pretty humble because ethan said, "I was even on the route the next day after he sent and none of the other people at the cliff knew" Well now, we know. Allez Nico! And good luck to Ethan and Dave Macleod (who is also working the capturing line right now).

Ty Landman and Dave Graham are in Europe right now climbing some hard boulder problems. In the last week he has climbed two v14's Radja and New Base Line, and three v13's! Most impressively one of the v13's (Cullinan) he flashed! This puts him in the very small and elite 8B flash club. And yes in case you were wondering he called it soft. along with nearly every problem he logs on his scorecard ;).

Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, and Lisa Rands and the rest of their crew are nearing the end of their Rocklands venture. Paul writes in his blog that everyday at least someone is sending one of their projects. They all have sent alot, but the two most noteworthy ascents are Lisa's ascent of Nutsa 8A+ (another v12 for Lisa!) and Paul Robinson getting the third ascent of Amandla 8C (v15 fa by Frederic Nicole and second ascent by Tony Lamiche) Lamiche repeated the problem only a week or so before P-Rob, and word has it from a credible source that he walked up to the problem on crutches!

GYM NEWS:

This past weekend Chris Danielson- one of, if not The, most respected routesetters in the nation hosted a routesetting clinic. It was a great time to say the least, very productive and insightful. Thanks Chris.

New climbing holds are on their way, and fresh routes are being put up daily.

The next post will come sooner

WORLD NEWS


There is a four stage bouldering World Cup going on in Europe right now. The last stage completed was in Montauban, France. The next and final stage is to be held in Moscow, Russia. Click here for the most recent results.









Expect some more serious climbing to go down here in the near future... Chris Sharma will be heading to Schleier soon. Tony Lamiche is in Rocklands, South Africa along with Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson who are cleaning up some hard testpieces. And Sean McColl is heading up his Canada crew in Europe.


Adam Ondra just climbed Reality Check 8c+, Gambit 8c+, and onsighted Resistence 8b+/c at the notorious Schleier Wasserfall, Austria. Adam is currently trying to redpoint Open Air, an old Alex Huber (one of the two Huber brothers who now hold the speed record for The Nose)testpiece with zero repeats. Adam has commented that Open Air is "9a+ for sure".












Adam Taylor and Jon Cardwell just repeated The Crew 8C+, which was orignially graded 8C but has suffered many breakages, in Rifle, Colorado, one of the hardest routes there.


LOCAL NEWS
Speaking of Rifle, our very own Alan Moore is currently getting back into route-shape before heading off to Ceuse, France. Alan has climbed two 8Bs including Bride of Frankenstein and Simply Read.

Youth wonderboys Julian and Michael Bautista have both climbed 8B+! After both finishing first at divisionals in Arizona, they made a speedy trip out to Maple Canyon. Julian climbed two 8B+'s (5.14a) including Millenium and Hole Shot.

OTHER NEWS

Perfecto the newst climbing film is an in depth look at Mallorcan Psicobloc featuring Boone Speed, Ethan Pringle, and Katie Brown. Also, Dosage 5 is still being shown at various theatres nationwide.

Speaking of Psicobloc everyone should check out the short, "Nels Rosaasen Life Without A Shirt"

GYM NEWS

Air Conditioning is in! Finally. no but really. it is. Come on in and check it out.

Next Monday (the 14th) is Ladies night. All women climb for free from 6-10. Tell your friends!
And the following monday is another mustache monday. So give it time and let grow.